BSES HQ receives expedition field updates weekly so check back every Monday to see what has happened in the week gone by.

Monday, August 17

Expedition Arrives Home Tonight

Flight details as follows:

Airport: London Gatwick
Terminal: South
Arrival Time: 1930
Airline: Norwegian Air Shuttle
Flight Number: DY1306

Any problems call Dot (07929 561167) or Patrick (07870 815986)

Sunday, August 16

Last day of the expedition

Today we woke up in Norway just the same as the last 4 weeks, there was one difference this was our last. Although we have been the smallest BSES LDP expedition, strong bonds have been made between the five of us and our three inspirational leaders. We finished as we started in true style by hosting the final meal. This will be our last blog entry we leave you with the knowledge that we have had a fantastic time.

We would like to give special thanks to local residents Kolbjorn, Barbara and Thomas who have been incredibly welcoming and helpful towards our expedition.

Saturday, August 15

Final stop - Kautokeino and Sami life

The final day of our expedition took both fires to Kautokeino, a town with the largest Sami population in Norway. We spent the morning visiting the Sami Museum and picking up some food from the local shop to add to our lunch by the riverside. In the afternoon we walked to the soon to be opened Sami University. Once there, we were given a talk by Professor Svein Matiesen on how global warming and climate change are affecting the Sami people and the Reindeer they herd. We then travelled once more to the camp site in Alta where we could get clean and relax ready to start packing up tomorrow for our return to the UK on Monday.

Friday, August 14

Bjorn fire - navigation skills tested

Another early start for our fire for our journey south across the Finnmarksvidda. Once again the paths were misleading and our navigational skills were put to the test. We’ve learnt that Norwegian maps are merely a guide and not a patch on our OS maps. After bashing through yet more bog we finally made the Kautokeino to Karasjok road and made camp for the night, proud to be leaders on the first BSES expedition to explore the Finnmarksvidda.

Javri fire - 5 day's weather in one

Later start today but found more bog. Today’s aim was to get to the finish point and learn more about the area we were walking through even if this involved sinking knee deep in mud just to collect a few amazing cloudberries. We did a bit of navigation on top of a hill taking in the amazing view in the sun. As we walked off the hill it all changed in seconds: it had gone from glorious sun shine to driving hail making us resort to our group shelter after 10 exciting minutes of hammering ice it stopped as suddenly as it started and was back to sun again. On the Finnmarksvidda we seem to have experienced every type of weather imaginable other than snow. After a brief unplanned detour due to coming across multiple paths rather than the one on the map, we reached the road and got in to camp. Today was another very good day, unfortunately this will be our last day of real expeditioning as tomorrow we will be going to Kautokeino to learn more about the Sami.

Thursday, August 13

Bjorn fire - rivers and bog!

Today we enjoyed 12 km of continuous bog, interspersed by 10 river crossings. Blisters were common by the end of the day. The paths disappeared into the bog and we had some disagreement with the GPS which located us in the middle of one of the major rivers when we were actually stood on one of the higher summits. The day finished with us camped 2km from our planned destination when our river was one continuous bog. We retreated early to bed due to a mass midge fest issue.

Javri Fire - bog walking

Today we walked and walked and walked and for a bit of variation waded across 2 rivers. This was to be our longest day both in distance and time spent on the move. We started early, walking across open tundra making a good pace until we met river number one which involved swapping shoes and wading across. We then walked some more, met river number two and the same palaver was repeated, met the other team at mozzie heaven and had a very satisfying rat pack meal after the 28km, 2 rivers and numerous bogs we had covered today.

Wednesday, August 12

Bjorn fire (the girls)

We were blessed with a later start than the boys, giving us an extra 2 hours in bed. However we did lose our minds after spending an hour and a half in a group shelter in the pouring rain whilst waiting for the YE’S. By the time the YE’s arrived, the clouds were all rained out and we trekked the 4km up hill to base camp, sampling cloudberries on the way. An evening of entertainment followed including a team building, magic carpet game and sitting in a rather damp group shelter whilst eating some Norwegian waffles.

Javri Fire (the boys)

We had an early start leaving Alta Camp site at 6am on the first shuttle to our drop off point on the Finnmarkvidda. Our 5 YE’s joined us later on after travelling down from Oksfjord. They were welcomed by an unusually heavy rain, but we are all surprisingly at home in our waterproofs.

We had lunch in a traditional Norwegian trekkers hut, and shared Lefser, a cream filled waffle which is a favourite snack in Norway. Tim and I continued to lead our team named Javri (lake in Sami) to where we made camp that evening on the tundra. All the while sharing stories and facts we had learned while planning in the days leading up to the mini expedition. The day ended with a tale of Askelladden, a character known well in Norwegian legend and fairytale.

Tuesday, August 11

Last minute preparations

A day of logistics. Packing the van, picking up the Ratpacks and popping to the chemist to get the all important Mygg Melk, mozzie repellent for the Finnmarkvidda.

The afternoon was broken up with a walk to Komsa Gorravarri. We picked up Thomas, our in country tour guide, and headed up to see the views across Alta and the fjord. On our walks now we’ve become quite accustomed to berry picking and getting the essential 5 a day a rat pack seriously lacks. We tried a new berry shown to us by Thomas and known as Tyttbearr. This particular berry reminds us somewhat of an unripe pea, not as alluring as the infamous Cloud Berry.

Yet again the evening was spent panicking and preparing. Packing was on the agenda and a good night sleep as tomorrow the expedition leading starts!

Monday, August 10

Learning about Sami culture

A trip to Kautokeino, a Sami centre. Yet another recce trip for the last day of our mini expeditions. We broadened our knowledge even more by taking a trip to the local Sami museum. Outside the museum were mock huts and houses that we could look around and really grasp the Norwegian way of life. Mentioning no particular names, 3 YLs (not including Tim) thought it would be funny to lock Nikki in one of the huts! Releasing her very quickly when they realised it was too quiet without her.

The trip back from Kautokeino was broken up with a visit to Pikefossen Falls. Sami legend has it that a reindeer herder threw a young girl off the falls when his reindeer she was looking after drowned. We managed to get some good photos of the only waterfall on the Finnmarksvidda.

Sunday, August 9

Recce for expedition leading

Today we split ourselves into our leadership groups for our mini expeds. We all went to the start points of where we wanted our expeditions to begin. The whole purpose of the day was to recce the beginning of each expedition so we feel more prepared when leading the YE’s. Both groups returned quite wet but even more excited for the mini expeditions that lay ahead.

Sadly the evening was spent doing essential paperwork and planning. Still a very exciting task!

Saturday, August 8

Steve-

Cultural day with our Norwegian contact Thomas. He was a YE 15 years ago and volunteered to be our guide on Norwegian-ness.

Our first port of call was the Alta museum, which is no ordinary museum as it is also a UNESCO world heritage site. It has its status from ancient stone carvings that date back as far as Stonehenge. However; it was not only ancient history we learnt from Thomas as he taught us more interesting things about the surrounding area and the Sami culture. The group came away enthused and ready to pass on their new-found knowledge to the YE’s.



On return to the campsite we began our planning for the mini expeditions we will be running for the YE’s. For dinner we had a well-deserved Norwegian culinary experience put on by our Master Chef Chief Leader and enthusiastic assistant/expedition doc/leader.

Friday, August 7

Early start again today. We said goodbye to base camp at 7.30am to head off for the ferry. The journey went: delayed ferry, played cards, attempted eye spy, slept, real toilet stop, and finally Alta.

After setting up at the campsite and getting into a real (but cold) shower, we headed to the shops! Civilisation hit us at last. Excitement ran through the group especially at the supermarket and baskets were filled to the brim. Cravings meant we even splashed out £8 for 500g of cheese. A feast took place even before we got back to camp!

Thursday, August 6

The group day started at 12noon, when we all returned from our solos, some with rather interesting stories to tell about reindeer and others with a catalogue of “sunset” photos.



The day was spent trying out different team building activities. Our group’s competitive side shone whilst trying to complete the magic carpet game. Yet we were less successful, due to balance issues, with the three legged race. The group became very creative with a Haiku poetry session and felt the need to each create one of their own. We now present the anthology…

YL’s played in snow,
Torvill did pull off a show,
Rock held on below.

A trip to the shop,
Pizza feast and bananas,
At base camp last night.

I sit on the ground
Eating my biscuit Browns,
With Raspberry jam.

Hot dry midgy land,
Sun hats and t-shirts are rife,
This is the ARCTIC.

Wearing fleece trousers
May be warm, but tundra stuck
All over is norm.

Nalgene oh so strong,
Dropped from heights no problem, but
Sipping gets you wet.

Walking down the ice,
At 3am, sun so bright.
Alpine starts not nice.

Today was our last full day at base camp. We spent the evening packing up and getting ready to head to Alta tomorrow for the final phase of our expedition.

Wednesday, August 5

Botany was the theme for the morning. Or for some of us ‘what plants you can and can’t eat!’ We’ve now taken a liking to Cloud berries and Blueberries.

That afternoon we met a bit of civilisation again by venturing to Nuvsvaag’s only shop. On the menu for the evening was bonfire pizza and mars bar bananas. Although the pizzas were slightly burnt they were more than welcome, and the mars bar bananas were eaten quicker than they cooled down.

As part of our programme we are all encouraged to write a personal development plan. We ended the day ‘soloing’ in different areas of the valley, all to meet again at 12noon the next day. Some of us took the time to sleep, take photos; wash and most of all feel at one with the environment.

Tuesday, August 4

Sunday walk on a Tuesday!

The group explored the next valley today with the intentions of polishing their navigational skills and emergency evacuations. Survival bags came in handy when attempting to lift and carry each other. Not something we ever want to have to do on the hill for real.

We ventured to the back end of the valley to see an amazing corrie lake fed by the glacier high above. The day ended with us saying farewell to Andy! Have a steak and stubby for us!

Monday, August 3

Today was spent around Base Camp. Much needed for all of us!

We’ve begun delving into the logistics of planning expeditions and, after our talk with BSES Tim, we ended up with our hearts set on leading on near future BSES expeditions. Svalbard was a popular choice…

Sunday, August 2

Sarah-
Descended the glacier at 3am, as that’s when it’s meant to be the coldest part of the day, whilst negotiating our way over and around crevasses and the rising sun beating down on us, we were all sweltering by the time we finally reached the bottom. One final push down the moraine and we were finally able to catch up on some much needed sleep. Once again we were in the land of the mosquitoes which we had sorely missed (not) for the past week and in the over bearing heat - not necessarily what you sign up for on a trip to the Arctic! Once back at base camp, most of us headed straight for a wash in the river and then caught up on what had been happening while we were gone. The day ended with a gentle paddle relaxing out in the sea kayaks.

Saturday, August 1

Tim-
Today’s plan was to do another peak, this time on the other side of the glacial valley so we could look down on base camp and advanced base camp. It was another hot, sunny day up on the glacier so the views from the top were amazing!



Walking over snow in just thermals is always amusing. It was a reasonably short day today as we were preparing for our early alpine start tomorrow, so I had the odd experience of being the only one not in a tent trying to sleep at 6pm in the afternoon. It was a very fun day in all, full of amazing views and good weather.

Friday, July 31

Katie-
Today we explored the western edge of the glacier with the aim of summiting a 981m peak. Although this was a smaller peak than those the day before, it did not disappoint as the views across Svanvatnet lake and out to Tverrfjorden and Landfjorden were breathtaking. This gave lots of opportunities for posing for photos. We returned to the camp with a real sense of achievement and discussed tomorrow’s plans as we waited an hour for our snow to melt and water to boil to cook our ration pack meals.

Thursday, July 30

Nikki-

Peak bashing! Today we headed for the highest land and snow peak. It was a struggle and we underestimated how hard a snow peak is to find… just one big dome. Walking in crampons, in a line, and roped up at the same pace as everyone else is quite a difficult task, yet we seem to be perfecting it. There was a certain delight when we hit the land peak and had amazing views all around.



On the way back we revisited the snow peak and had a little snow man building session. The ratpak raisins came in handy, as eyes and buttons on the snowman. By the time we reached camp we were all pretty tired but glad to have explored part of the Oksfjord glacier. More exploring tomorrow!

Wednesday, July 29

Steve-
Today brought about a series of new things. The cool air brought a welcome change, awaking from our first night on the glacier. That wasn’t the only change, as overnight the clouds had set in. Once we had cooked, using melted snow as our water source, we roped up and prepared to pick up our ration packs from the snout of the glacier. During our re-ascent, Sarah gained her new nick name of ‘Torvill’, after her slide down a section of ice. Tim also gained his nick name of ‘the rock’, as he jumped to the floor quickly to stop her from sliding further. Sarah got up quickly with a broad smile showing she was fine after quite an impressive show. Safe to say, once we reached camp again, we all needed a good rest with a warm drink.

Tuesday, July 28

20+KG rucksacks and looking like Christmas trees, we struggled to our ultimate destination at the top of the glacier… had to do a little kit dump half way…

Negotiating a few small crevasses, we found the perfect camping spot. It’s surrounded on three sides with nice clean snow, our water source. Oh and don’t forget the essential sizeable toilet rock.

Pegging down the tents was an interesting experience. We ended up using everything but pegs. The whole group was shattered but prepared to do it all again tomorrow to pick up the rest of our food.

Monday, July 27

Expedition location


View Arctic Kayaking 2009 in a larger map
Finally we all touched the ice! And had a good roll around on it too…

First on the agenda, ice axe arrests. Throwing ourselves head first, feet first, face first, and even doing forward rolls straight down the glacier. All in the name of health and safety! Truly this is a safety exercise.

Next up was rope skills and crevasse rescue. Hopefully not to be needed, but great fun anyway.

By the end of the day we were all a bit tired and cold, a good night sleep was much needed. Off to the top tomorrow!

Sunday, July 26

26th July
We are on the move!...

Today was spent with some of us doing kit dumps up at our Advanced Base Camp whilst others managed the tidying up[ and preparations back at basecamp. There was a lot of shifting, moving, cooking and cleaning but in the end by “nightfall” we were all at our new advanced base camp. We are ready to hit the glacier first thing tomorrow

Saturday, July 25

25th July

Frostbite, frost nip, freezing toes, and whoops it gets deeper! Today Nikki led the river crossing workshop, with Sarah as her stagehand. This meant a lot of cold YL’s and high pitched yelps. Tim provided a sturdy support for our group crossing although much practise was needed to get us all in time.

This evening Steve, Katie and Tim have headed up to our advanced base camp at the bottom of the glacier to do a food drop, whilst the ‘ladies who lunch’ have stayed back to clean the camp!

Hopefully tomorrow night we will be at the advanced base camp ready to hit the glacier Monday morning. The whole group is very excited!

Friday, July 24



Today was all about the nervy bees! We spent much of the day working on the slopes to practise rope skills and other means of helping those we may lead who might find the route difficult. Sid, Katie’s mascot (see photo), was a dab hand at the old belaying. By the end of the day all of us were feeling much more confident in our ability to help others. Slightly overwhelmed with overhand knots, stopper knots, figure of eights, fisherman’s knot, double figure eight…

Tomorrow is all about the river dance!

Thursday, July 23

23rd July

Tim out-shone us all! Today we learnt about bushcraft, whittling spoons from silver birch and making fire from fluff. Sadly the only truly successful member of the team was Tim. He is now making us a ladle and has produced numerous spoons since. Steve was not far off with his keen whittling skills and fire hands, typical boy games!

Sarah, Katie and Nikki decided to venture forth into the freezing stream for the first wash of the trip. Apparently screams could be hard 800yds away back at base camp! But least we have clean hair.

A “Safety on Steep Ground” day tomorrow. We are heading up the one side of the U-shaped Valley

Sarah

Wednesday, July 22

22nd July

The YL’s got to within reach of the Oksfjord glacier today. Some of us slightly too tired to actually step on the ice however; the team were kind enough to bring some back for us to touch. Mind you we were only 200m away!



Sadly our bivvi plans had to be put aside due to logistical issues. Still, we spent a good day exploring the valley we are based in. Steve, Katie and Nikki managed to conquer the largest boulder first, however, Tim and Sarah claimed they had sneaked up behind on the conquering of the boulder opposite. There could have only been millimetres in it!

Tomorrow we plan for a day at base camp practising bush craft skills.

Sarah
Message from main party...no rain so far!!!

Jamie

Tuesday, July 21

1st Update from the team!

Arrived at Base camp finally at 11.30pm, tired, cold, and all we craved was our down sleeping bags and thermarest. Woke up after a leisurely lie in this morning, WOW! 10am, to see how amazing our base camp is. We are currently situated in a beautiful valley about 3 hours walk away from the glacier we are hoping to explore. At the foot of the valley in full view of base camp is the beach in which the YE’s will be kayaking off.



Today was spent organising and setting up our base camp. Food and toilet were our main priority. This involved much lugging of rather heavy kit approximately 1km uphill, our fitness is already being put to the test. We have all seemed to establish our food time jobs Sarah and Nikki as culinary genii, Master Stove Mender has fallen to Tim, and our Pot Shiners are Steve and Katie with the “frost bitten” fingers. No baths here the water is freezing.

Tomorrow we hope to head up the valley on a recce of a new base camp specifically for us Young Leaders. We are hoping to bivvi under some nice boulders or in a cave. Our only friends the reindeer.

Monday, July 20

Arrival in Alta

Just a quick update to let you know that everyone has arrived safely in Alta.

Main party depart

So, early this morning 5 Young Leaders set off from Gatwick and are currently winging their way to Norway. Everyone turned up with their passports and excitement was in the air.
We look forward to following their progress in the next few weeks...

Wednesday, July 15

Expedition Info

Click the interactive pdf below to read a brief overview of this year's extreme Arctic expedition:

Read more about the expedition on the BSES website - CLICK HERE

Team Leadership 2009

There will be 5 Young Leaders heading out to Norway this year accompanied by two leaders. They are as follows:

Leader Helen Turton
Leader Andrew Forsyth


Young Katie Harris
Leaders Timothy Culwick

Stephen Brooks

Sarah Lloyd

Nicole Phillips

Support BSES


BSES is a youth development charity that has been running fieldwork expeditions since 1932. Our work simply wouldn't be possible without our funders, supporters and fantastic volunteer leaders.

If you feel you would like to contribute towards expeditions in future years and help more young people develop into more rounded individuals, you can do so by clicking the link below.

If you would like to support our charity, any amount large or small will be greatly appreciated. To find out more about BSES use the links on the right hand side.

Click below to donate now. Thank You!

Join us in 2010

If you are excited by this expedition then you may like to find out more about our upcoming 2010 expeditions. In many cases we return to the same locations to enable us to conduct year on year fieldwork and build up a body of knowledge.

We are now taking applications for next years expeditions:


If you are between 16-23 and up for a potentially life-changing challenge, download an application form HERE

It could be you next year!

5 Days to go!!!

5 days to go before departure! The BSES office is currently full of kit and food ready to be shipped and flown to destinations all over the world.

Jamie - Expedition Coordinator